—a love letter to umami Chinese food has exactly five flavors. That’s not just my opinion, it’s a formulation that appears in at least 2,500 years of Chinese food writing. The five flavors—sweet, salty, sour, spicy and bitter—are the essential, indivisible components of cuisine. Actually that 2,500 years is just the point that the fiveContinue reading “Celery and crab roe”